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Routes in Mammoth Rock

Boromir S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bridge of Sighs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Peregrine/Raptors nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Proboscis S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Worsfold and Sean Burke
Page Views: 703 total, 27/month
Shared By: Stas Yurkevich on Sep 23, 2015 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Bridge of Sighs to the top of Mammoth rock.
There are two starts to this climb. The left start (Africanized 5.11b) climbs an overhung traverse out of the cave with a thrilling run out to join the bolted line.
The right start is easier and gives an over all grade 5.10c Expect some moderate run outs and hollow, fragile rock throughout.
Could be done in one 60 meters pitch.
Or you can break it in two 27 meters pitches by using bolted anchors station in the cave.
Bolts and chains are camouflaged.
Run out portion on second pitch is on SUPER easy 5.6. All the 5.10 moves are well-protected. On top of second pitch belay from the hole and walk off to descend.

Location

In center of Mammoth rock, you can see the bolts right from Peregrine/Raptors nest route

Protection

7-9 draws, long slings
Halfway up the climb there's a big undercling. Stay towards the left part of it/be careful: the rock to the right is big and could easily be pulled off the wall. This route is pretty chossy in general so be careful about falling rocks. Oct 22, 2017
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, California
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, California
 
The 11b start is blocked by a hidden wasp/bees nest in a key hold above the first bolt. They came out after about 15 seconds of grabbing the hold.

Is this the source of the "Africanized" name? Aug 6, 2017
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
The first pitch is Not R rated. At most the bolt is about 5 feet below you when you're making a 5.8 move to get to the next bolt. The head factor comes from being able to trust that the rock wont break. Its pretty solid on this route, but remember to pull down and not out.

Really recommend the 11b start. Super solid rock and very well protected. The traverse over to the Bridge line is also protected by a bolt at the start of the traverse so it's pretty safe (the description makes it sound dangerous) Dec 5, 2016