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Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears

Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbidden Fruit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 7 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 931 total, 36/month
Shared By: I.A.N Nielson on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Ben Ditto and I climbed this route a few years ago. According to Tai Devore, it is likely a new, direct start to an old John Fisher route. This is a real deal trad climb with a demanding approach and committing climbing. There is no fixed gear. Expect a long day.

P1: Start in short right facing dihedral which turns into a right angling ramp, belay standing on an awesome knob.

P2: Continue up right angling ramp, moving left to a parallel ramp when possible. Continue up and right on this ramp to an awesome belay stance in an alcove below a scary looking flake. Don't worry, it's small.

P3: Climb up and around the flake (bomber when we climbed the route) to a large right leaning corner system. Follow cracks up the right side of the slab (dirty) to a belay at a stance on a pillar.

P4: Traverse thin crack left and up onto a slab. Move up and left to a good ledge (spicy). Belay at this ledge for your followers sake. Short pitch.

P5: Climb straight left under the slab on the dike/ledge. Belay at a good stance around the left side of the buttress where a thin crack leads up onto the slab.

P6: Climb up thin crack to an uncomfortable belay below a roof.

P7: Climbing over the roof and through the steep rock above is the physical crux of the route. It is possible that pitches 6 & 7 could be linked to avoid the uncomfortable belay at the end of pitch 6.

At this point the route wanders from left to right on the progressively narrowing ridge. We simul-climbed a good portion of the upper ridge. Great ledges if you have to bivy.

Protection

Double Rack from small fingers to big hands, stoppers and 24" slings.
Richard Shore
  5.10
Richard Shore  
  5.10
Wow! What a proud and big line! No fixed gear of any kind on route. We felt that it was quite sustained 5.9-5.10 through the first 7 pitches on the wall. Another 5 long pitches (2 of which we simul-climbed) up the ridge to summit afterwards. Sporty moves above gear on nearly every pitch. While exciting, maybe not "R" but definitely "PG13". We trundled a few loose blocks, including the "bomber flake" on P3 (NOT bomber), and hopefully future parties will find it even better than we did. The roof on P7 is intimidating but goes via a long leftward undercling traverse. We found a fresh bail nut here and a detached wafer-thin 3'x3' plate along the undercling which was also trundled and allowed passage. I'm curious as to how other parties have surmounted this enormous obstacle? It looked like you could also go out the right side of the roof up a VERY rotten corner system. My partner and I both thought the route was solid 5.10, grade IV day for avg team.

FA: John Fischer & Jay Jensen 1972. I belive their original 5.9 line starts in a left-facing dihedral around the right hand side of the Buttress proper, near the bottom of the descent gully. Oct 9, 2015