Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mike Strassman, 2004(?)
Page Views: 387 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Oct 24, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Excellent thin-face and slab climbing on quality stone up the right-hand margin of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). 4 new bolted pitches lead to another 4 pitches of somewhat grainy and bushy cracks with occasional runout face. The last 3 pitches are shared with the routes "Adam's Rib" and "Eve's Wang."

P1) Up the arete on the right edge of the tower, left across a dike/slab, then up cracks to a belay atop a large rounded block. 6 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.10-

P2) Straight up the sustained slab. 10 or 11 bolts to bolted anchor. 5.10c

P3) Up and right through the small roof/flake, then straight up the face above. 7 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.9/10-

P4) Straight up the face past 6 bolts (skipping an off-route 7th bolt up and left), then traverse right past 4 or 5 more bolts through a short & desperately blank smearing section which felt a bit harder than the proposed 5.10c grade. Beyond the bolts, continue up a lieback corner and step left onto a large ledge. 10 or 11 bolts + gear, tree anchor. 5.11a

P5) This is where things start to get funky, and don't quite match up with the topo. There are a few possible options here, so take my beta with a grain of salt. Left off the belay, 10' up a crack, 10' left across a nice dike to a right-leaning thin crack/flake. Over a small roof, then up and left past a wafer-thin and expando flake (think light and crank softly). Gear to bolted anchor. Short pitch, 5.10a R

P6) A foot-then-hand traverse straight right for 50' past a few bushes to a gear anchor in a nice handcrack/flake. Another short pitch, 5.8. One can escape out right into the gully from here. (Alternatively, there is a 10a thin crack above the bolted anchor - this is the direct finish for Adam's Rib & Eve's Wang)

P7) Up the steep face past an old bolt (hard to spot) and left to the corner. Continue up the bushy and somewhat loose cracks above. 5.8 R

P8) Another bushy crack pitch to the summit. 5.7


Right edge of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). Descend 3rd class gully to climber's left, same as for Smokestack.


12 quickdraws/extendable slings for bolts (all stainless 3/8") single rack of cams to 3", set of stoppers.


Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
Mike Strassman added this route to the old rc.com database in 2004, stating that there are 5 bolted pitches to gain the remaining 3 on the other routes. I found only 4 bolted pitches, and there hanging on the P3 anchor was a sunbleached rotten sling with 9 unused SS bolts and hangers. On top of P5 I found a new-ish bolted anchor of the same variety that he used below; this anchor is not indicated in the topo. Based on this I think it's likely that Mike had intentions of completing a bolted 5th pitch, but never got around to it before he passed away. Oct 24, 2015