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Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears

Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbidden Fruit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mike Strassman, 2004(?)
Page Views: 313 total, 12/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Oct 24, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Excellent thin-face and slab climbing on quality stone up the right-hand margin of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). 4 new bolted pitches lead to another 4 pitches of somewhat grainy and bushy cracks with occasional runout face. The last 3 pitches are shared with the routes "Adam's Rib" and "Eve's Wang."

P1) Up the arete on the right edge of the tower, left across a dike/slab, then up cracks to a belay atop a large rounded block. 6 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.10-

P2) Straight up the sustained slab. 10 or 11 bolts to bolted anchor. 5.10c

P3) Up and right through the small roof/flake, then straight up the face above. 7 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.9/10-

P4) Straight up the face past 6 bolts (skipping an off-route 7th bolt up and left), then traverse right past 4 or 5 more bolts through a short & desperately blank smearing section which felt a bit harder than the proposed 5.10c grade. Beyond the bolts, continue up a lieback corner and step left onto a large ledge. 10 or 11 bolts + gear, tree anchor. 5.11a

P5) This is where things start to get funky, and don't quite match up with the topo. There are a few possible options here, so take my beta with a grain of salt. Left off the belay, 10' up a crack, 10' left across a nice dike to a right-leaning thin crack/flake. Over a small roof, then up and left past a wafer-thin and expando flake (think light and crank softly). Gear to bolted anchor. Short pitch, 5.10a R

P6) A foot-then-hand traverse straight right for 50' past a few bushes to a gear anchor in a nice handcrack/flake. Another short pitch, 5.8. One can escape out right into the gully from here. (Alternatively, there is a steep thin crack above the bolted anchor - this may be the true line.)

P7) Up the steep face past an old bolt (hard to spot) and left to the corner. Continue up the bushy and somewhat loose cracks above. 5.8 R

P8) Another bushy crack pitch to the summit. 5.7

Location

Right edge of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). Descend 3rd class gully to climber's left, same as for Smokestack.

Protection

12 quickdraws/extendable slings for bolts (all stainless 3/8") single rack of cams to 3", set of stoppers.
Mike Strassman added this route to the old rc.com database in 2004, stating that there are 5 bolted pitches to gain the remaining 3 on the other routes. I found only 4 bolted pitches, and there hanging on the P3 anchor was a sunbleached rotten sling with 9 unused SS bolts and hangers. On top of P5 I found a new-ish bolted anchor of the same variety that he used below; this anchor is not indicated in the topo. Based on this I think it's likely that Mike had intentions of completing a bolted 5th pitch, but never got around to it before he passed away. Oct 24, 2015