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Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears

Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbidden Fruit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlett & James Wilson 12/1977
Page Views: 286 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The large east face of Wells Peak is divided into an upper and lower half by a thick vertical band of black diorite. December's Children ascends the lower wall via the first continuous crack system to the right of the huge blank face. Excellent rock quality, but a bit dirty in the cracks - 38 years may have passed between ascents. Approach via Wells Canyon; expect 1.5 hours to the base.

We did a "direct start" and added a technical pitch to the route. It is likely that the FA party traversed into the base of the big chimney (P2) on 3rd/4th class slabs & ledges from the left.

P1) Up double cracks in a short RF corner to lower angle cracks above. Belay at the base of the huge chimney. 5.8 100'

P2) Up the wide and blocky chimney, step right to belay atop a pillar. Old-school 5.9 150'

P3) Bear-hug the hanging dagger and up a thin-to-hand crack in a corner, then over a big roof. Belay on blocks, 5.9+ 120'

P4) Up the short mossy corner to lower-angle hand cracks and chimney. Over another big roof, then step right to belay at a flake at the base of a LF corner. 5.9 120'

P5) Up the steep and somewhat dirty hands/fists corner for ~50', then step right around the arete when things start to look hard. Up and right on ledges to belay atop a pillar. Crux, 5.10 100'

P6) Continue up cracks right of the huge bushy dihedral, working to the right when possible. 5.8 120'

P7) Easier blocky cracks lead to the loose diorite ledge atop the wall. 5.7 100'

Location

See photos for the route. Descend off right down the black diorite band with many sections of loose 4th and 5th class downclimbing. Eventually, cross over a diorite rib and into the gully between the diorite and granite to the west. Near the base, the gully cliffed-out and a single-rope rappel was required (we left a big stopper and biner here).

Protection

Doubles to 3", single 4", stoppers. No fixed gear.

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