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Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears

Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forbidden Fruit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell (1970)
Page Views: 2,572 total, 47/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on May 28, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1 5.7 straight up the right facing dihedral. Just below the plateau traverse to the left. Gear anchor.
P2 5.10a crux just above the anchor. Some tcu's or small stoppers for protection. Easy afterwards. Tree-anchor.
P3 5.9 straight up through the obvious hand-crack. Afterwards traverse to the left (5.9) until 20ft below a chimney. Tree-anchor.
P4 Easy slab and chimney. Sling or rope-anchor.
P5 5.9 straight up through slab, some protection. Slightly left to a bolt and a flake. Head straight up above the flake and traverse to the left (second bolt). Gear anchor in the next crack.
P6 5.7 Well protected chimney or bad protected (easy) face. Easy terain above the chimney. Tree-anchor.
P7 5.8 Easy, unprotected slab until the start of the hand-crack. Well-protected and good fun! Gear-anchor on the small plateau just below the left-facing flare.
P8 5.9 Chimney/handcrack and some easy scrambling to the top. Gear anchor (small cams)

Location

See area-description. Start at the obvious rightfacing dihedral in the middle of the southern Rabbit Ear.
Descent: when just below the summit block, walk around and descent through the gully, some third class scrambling, two rappels possible to avoid harder downclimbing.

Protection

Gear to 4". Some tcu's come in handy at the crux. Gear anchors.
travispowell
  5.10+ R
travispowell  
  5.10+ R
The fifth pitch is certainly not 5.9 and no less than R rated. If you botch it before the first bolt ( which is 60 feet or more off the belay) you've got two hollow, expanding flakes between you and the belay, which you will probably fly past. Climb with caution. I would only recommend this to folks who are comfortable with long, long runouts and slab climbing. Nov 5, 2017
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
 
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
 
My buddy and I did this climb last fall. Beware that the topo for this route is so way out of date and totally not to scale. The topo may show short face to bolt when in reality the bolt is about 60 ft away with several features between that aren't on the topo.

Be ready for adventure climbing into the unknown. Not really a climb to rave about in my eyes. Oct 12, 2014
Joe Crawford
June Lake, California
Joe Crawford   June Lake, California
Climbed this yesterday (3/12/14) in 7 pitches. The description here is great as is the comment to expect exfoliating rock; makes the slabs pretty full value. Wanted to add pitch lengths (our best guess) and other belay options. We climbed with 2x blue tcu- c4#2 single 00-0 tcu & c4 #3, didn't feel like a #4 would be worth the weight.

1: 5.7 80' up obvious right facing dihedral, gear belay (finger size cams) on ledge.

2: 5.10a 100' crux right off belay (small nut for pro). easier, flared cracks past bonsai bushes to a tree.

3: 5.8r 180' up and left through small cracks to a runout slab (mediocre c4 #3 protects last 15 feet) to flakes then left out of corner, belay at first tree or up another 30' to base of chimney, belay at tree or sling large horn.

4: 5.6 150' up easy, blocky chimney to slab, belay at undercling flakes (small cams).

5. 5.9 200' up 10' to bolt, then left to flakes and 2nd bolt, friction traverse (5.9) to next crack, belay here or continue 40' to belay at small ledge with small cracks.

6: 5.8 150' up easy slab with small gear to 30' runout slab (5.7), climb flared thin hands to fingers crack to bottom of the left facing flare.

7: 5.9 100' climb the flare (sucks with a pack), scramble to top belay on small pine and crack.

Descend via 3rd class around the summit block to the gully climbers left. The tunnel through described in the guide book looked too tight for our liking, instead we rapped 20' off of 2 slung blocks. Mar 13, 2014
Lurker
Verdi, NV
 
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
 
This thing is full-value, old school 5.10. Expect slabs, solid runouts and a little bit of exfoliating rock. Altogether good fun! Nov 16, 2013