Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: 2015
Page Views: 1,093 total · 10/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Oct 3, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

This route has three distinct sections.

1ST

The first part of this route climbs about 50' of erosional features and a hanging corner, with a slightly less than vertical aspect. Climb straight up through all of this to the roof. 5.8PG13.

2ND

The second section is the 10' roof, initially climbed A0, now 5.11+. Setting up to make the moves into the roof-flakes and edges requires a V-hard boulder problem followed by very long reaches to a rest. Then 15' of diagonaling roof/jug/edge climbing lead to the jugs.

3RD

Lastly, the third section is comprised of a beautiful, runout watergroove with incut "ears" that runs from the lip of the roof all the way to the final ledge stance...about 35' of exposed vertical 5.9...minimal gear through this section.

This route was established on a rainy October day. From the anchors to the ground is a 80' free hanging rappel. Speculated to go free at 5.12-.

Whereabouts Suggest change

Dead center of the Hot Wing Buttress. Look for the two "horns" at the top-center of the Hot Wing Buttress...these are the final "ears" of the watergroove.

Dual hangers reside above that feature.

Rappel off of one of any of the numerous sets of rings atop routes to the right or Mean Lean, to the left.

Or, find the step-across at the back of the buttress/pinnacle.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Steele rack...plus a pair of aiders.

Photos

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