Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Gene Smith (?) ...'84/'85 i think
Page Views: 389 total · 6/month
Shared By: bernard wolfe on Apr 15, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

The route has a bouldery start with nice holds on slightly overhanging features. Crux moves gain an awkward position tucked under the roof. Wriggle out left and up to find an arching crack. Follow it up to another burlish roof/bulge feature that begins the final headwall portion. Pro can be tricky as you begin this section. Keep a cool head and piece together the moves up this slightly overhanging face. Fairly sustained difficulty through this section ...on nicely formed features.

Difficulty eases near the finish. Tree anchor.

Great route....a Steele classic!.

This route has a name.....given by the FA party.....but i can't remember it. Someone will chime in.

Location

This route is located on the section of cliff to the left of the Grahams Crack area. The base of this portion of the cliff is a terrace feature up a short scramble between the two cliff sections..... and there are several small caves along the mid portion of this section. The route itself is midway along this cliff section with the routes Suspended Animation and New Ideal to its right and routes Rainbow Arch, Revelations, and others to the left. This route is distinguished by a fixed copperhead placed approximately 12 feet into the route....and a fixed knifeblade a few feet below the copperhead. The copperhead has recently been supplemented by a bolt adjacent to it.

Protection

Medium rack to 3-inch....a smattering of sub- 0.75" cams. 2-foot slings to reduce rope drag. No fixed anchors. Take slings to anchor from the tree that is directly above the route's finish

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sammy raviv
5.10c
sammy raviv  
5.10c
old bashie has barnacles growing on it!! DCA calls it Rainbow Arch. Apr 26, 2013