Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: FA: 2014 (to my knowledge). FFA: 2015
Page Views: 1,071 total · 11/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Sep 13, 2015
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the most prominent feature on SCC property at a respectable grade, while remaining protectable (clean!) as well as sporty (steep!).

March up the lower terrace, gaining the platform of rock (the "Don't Tread On Me Ledge") even with the bottom of the Wolfe Wall Gully. Now, ready yourself for the pump...

OPTION 1: Starting on erosional features and flakes, pull up into a dead hang to place some small gear up and right. Then grope and scratch your way left to a position at the arete. Now, you must pull around this and move prudently up and to the left, gaining protection. NOTE: Big fall/swing potential post-arete.

OPTION 2: Alternatively, build a low anchor in the face-height horizontal (when looking out towards the valley), then reach out into space (airish), grab onto the hanging/protruding flake, and cut loose for a more exhilirating start. Now, dangle to the left until under the roof at the break. Campus then heel-hook the roof at the watergroove/crack on jugs. Pull through. From an established and protected stance, climb your way up the face to the shelf. Juggy 5.7 takes one through a roof and over some fun terrain to the top.

NOTE: Hard to add pro once off of the Don't Tread On Me Ledge, until through the roof....a #4 or #5 under the roof takes the sting out, but adds drag. Either way is 5.10ish. A bolt may be added in the future to protect both starts.

Fixed anchors at the top.

Location Suggest change

Left of Wolfe Wall, right of Gaia. Start from the ground or move your belay up to the Don't Tread On Me Ledge, thereby avoiding the need to squabble about in the Wolfe Wall Gully.

Protection Suggest change

One of everything.