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Routes in Right-Steep Side

De-Hedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'll Fly Away S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keymaster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Learning to Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 34 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Originally a short route used to set a TR on its harder neighbor, this line has been extended to the top of the cliff. It is well worth climbing the entire route for those who lead at this difficulty, or of course to access the anchors of harder routes to the right.
Step out from the top of the foot ramp, traversing straight right to a crack in the base of a left-facing corner, at the point where the slab drops off into the steep face below. Climb up around the corner to a vertical crack just left of the anchors of I'll Fly Away, then climb up to a horizontal crack, above which the vertical crack closes up. Traverse right to another vertical crack, then climb up to a ledge and belay at an oak tree to climber's right. The climbing to this point is 5.5 G.
The short headwall above has been climbed via a line of knobs and holds following a vertical seam/crack about 4m right of the rounded, left-facing corner system. The climbing here is 5.5 PG.

Location

Beneath two blocks pinned on a shelf at head height, near the point where the base slopes up leftward toward the Main Slab. Look for a 3' tall, narrow right-rising foot ramp.

Protection

Small trad rack with nuts, and cams to 2"

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