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Routes in Right-Steep Side

De-Hedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'll Fly Away S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keymaster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Learning to Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 125 ft
FA: 2015
Page Views: 50 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Tricky initial aid practice. This route is an open invitation to free up, probably lodging in at 5.11.
Climb up the ramp-like corner (scary committing start, don't fall here!), snuggle in an excellent #1 C4, then move up and slightly left to reach a thin crack facing downward short of the lip of the ceiling. Follow this crack rightward, using opposed brass nuts (very important!) and C3s, to a step up, where the crack becomes wide. Reach above the overhang and hit a good 1" vertical crack to break through it, then continue up steep but bomber vertical crack to its end. Swing right to another vertical crack, which also peters out, but reemerges 7' higher. Make a couple free moves to cross the gap, then continue up easing angle rock to a tree on the left.
Originally done as a solo aid route, I took my first real leader-aid fall on this, when a brass nut I hadn't opposed pulled as I swung rightward. The traverse is never more than 12' off the block, so it was a good thing my remaining pieces held.

Location

20 m right of the start of the low ceiling, on a boulder lying on the left side of a large rectangular block. There is a squat right-facing corner running up to the ceiling on the cliff just left of the boulder. The corner has a slight ramp-like edge at its base.

Protection

Double set of brass nuts, full set of cams from C3 #000 to C4 #4, doubles (or triples) of .5 to 3" cams. No bolts, no fixed anchors. Original ascent rappelled off a tree.

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