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Routes in Pigeon Cliff

Bolt Highway S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cajones Con Lodo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Camaraderie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Code III T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Comrades T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
David S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Bird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Team Supreme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Blast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist And Gun S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fistful Of Steel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flex Cuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gargoyles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghetto Blast T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hands Required T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian Tropic S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Thought This Was No Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J-Cat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jazz Hands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mustang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Hands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PREA T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pruno T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rehabilihate T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
River View Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sack Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shower Shark T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spit Or Swallows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squat and Cough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Use of Force T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Gus Compton, Ti Neff (1990)
Page Views: 82 total, 3/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Sep 19, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Very thin almost non existent holds and pure friction will get you past the two bolts that protect the lower section of this route. Good gear above in a tight fingers and hand crack lead to a cruxy section of thin fingers and then on to better (though flaring) cracks to the top.

Location

Right side of the crag, right of the obvious roof and dihedral of camaraderie.

Protection

Cams to 2"

Photos

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Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
If Gargoyles is 5.12, then this route is easily 5.12b. Sep 19, 2015