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Routes in Pigeon Cliff

Bolt Highway S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cajones Con Lodo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Camaraderie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Code III T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Comrades T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
DTS T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Blast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist And Gun S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fistful Of Steel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flex Cuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gargoyles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghetto Blast T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hands Required T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian Tropic S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Thought This Was No Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J-Cat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jazz Hands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mustang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Hands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PREA T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pruno T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rehabilihate T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
River View Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sack Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shower Shark T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spit Or Swallows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squat and Cough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Use of Force T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Elevation: 2,500 ft
GPS: 40.421, -120.673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,743 total · 60/month
Shared By: Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

A great little roadside crag with moderate to difficult sport and trad climbs. Although this is a relatively small crag, there are enough routes of varying difficulty to keep almost any climber busy and pumped out of their minds for a day or two.

Pigeon Cliffs is comprised of columnar basalt, which naturally forms some of the best splitter cracks, from finger tips to offwidths anywhere in the climbing world. Pigeon Cliff does not disappoint in this regard as most of it's routes are also vertical to overhanging, with several roof cracks, dihedrals and technical and aesthetic arĂȘtes. Unfortunately, this particular plug of columnar basalt is rather limited in both it's height and width, but with a few dozen routes from 5.8 to 5.13+, and most being around 90ft tall, there is little to complain about when stopping by for a day or two, taking a quick detour on a road trip or being fortunate enough to have this nice little place for climbing in your own back yard.

Getting There

Pigeon Cliff can be found on Hwy 36 less than 300yds from the Susanville city boundary sign on the West side of town. When heading into or out of the town of Susanville on Hwy 36, look for a long pullout bordering the cliff edge with several large tree logs and rocks blocking cars from driving off the edge. This pullout is almost directly across the street from North Pine Drives western outlet onto Hwy 36. Google it ;)

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pigeon Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
River View Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
River View Crack
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
On the road from Susanville to Mt Shasta, just above town.
May 3, 2013
Put up a couple FA's in 1977 with Dane Scott when Joe Fitschen told me about this place. When I climbed there the only other route was The Robbins Route,
FA: Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Steve Roper 1969. Sep 24, 2014
Cigdem .
Portland
Cigdem .   Portland
We stopped by today to climb, on our way to Lassen skiing. Looks like a great little crag. Unfortunately, there were too many birds (sand martins or swallows ?)....lots of nests above the nice 5.8 hand crack. When does nesting season typically begin & end? Thanks May 8, 2018
Paul Bernard
Chester, CA
Paul Bernard   Chester, CA
Yeah, I'm not sure they ever do... most of the routes avoid the swallow nests, but they do seem to be getting more prevalent! May 8, 2018

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