Type: Trad
FA: John Bald, Ti Neff (1991)
Page Views: 119 total · 3/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Sep 19, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up good holds into a tight dihedral, now take every opportunity to place even the most marginal gear but don't take too long looking because you're wasting your time, there isn't much. As you make your way up, the corner crack pinches it way down to a thin seam, so bring all the smallest gear you have.

A stemming mantle and more strenuous pure friction stemming will get you to the first piece of bomber gear about 30ft up. Now that the pressure is off, work your way to under the roof and save some juice for the flaring finger crack around the corner. Once established around the corner, follow the bomber cracks to the top.

Location

Right side of the crag. Distinguished by a thin seam in a dihedral (with a small bush) that leads to a roof with a crack heading right out the corner to more cracks above.

Protection

Few cams to 2" Smallest cams you got. Small offset nuts useful. Maybe a Yellow/blue offset alien would be nice.

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Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.11+
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.11+
The gear on this route is a little sketchy until about half way up. I'll admit I was quickly getting a little over my head on this one. I would not recommend trying to lead this route unless you're fairly confident free soloing 5.11 friction. I'm not 100% sure the micro nuts that protect the tough moves above the bush would hold a fall in this rock. Maybe I'm wrong, really didn't want to test it. Sep 19, 2015