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Routes in Pigeon Cliff

Bolt Highway S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cajones Con Lodo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Camaraderie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Code III T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Comrades T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
David S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Bird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Team Supreme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Family Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Blast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist And Gun S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fistful Of Steel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flex Cuffs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gargoyles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghetto Blast T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hands Required T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian Tropic S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
High C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Thought This Was No Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J-Cat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jazz Hands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mustang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Hands T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PREA T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pruno T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rehabilihate T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
River View Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sack Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shower Shark T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spit Or Swallows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squat and Cough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Use of Force T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: John Bald, Ti Neff (1991)
Page Views: 85 total, 3/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Sep 19, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up good holds into a tight dihedral, now take every opportunity to place even the most marginal gear but don't take too long looking because you're wasting your time, there isn't much. As you make your way up, the corner crack pinches it way down to a thin seam, so bring all the smallest gear you have.

A stemming mantle and more strenuous pure friction stemming will get you to the first piece of bomber gear about 30ft up. Now that the pressure is off, work your way to under the roof and save some juice for the flaring finger crack around the corner. Once established around the corner, follow the bomber cracks to the top.

Location

Right side of the crag. Distinguished by a thin seam in a dihedral (with a small bush) that leads to a roof with a crack heading right out the corner to more cracks above.

Protection

Few cams to 2" Smallest cams you got. Small offset nuts useful. Maybe a Yellow/blue offset alien would be nice.

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Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
The gear on this route is a little sketchy until about half way up. I'll admit I was quickly getting a little over my head on this one. I would not recommend trying to lead this route unless you're fairly confident free soloing 5.11 friction. I'm not 100% sure the micro nuts that protect the tough moves above the bush would hold a fall in this rock. Maybe I'm wrong, really didn't want to test it. Sep 19, 2015