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Routes in Gnar Wall

Balls to the Wall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crest Chewel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helical Tusk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Ma No Cavities S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tooth Fairy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 46 ft
FA: Allison Fritz, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 857 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 11, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Cool pockets off the ground pull through a lower angle bit of rock to the base of a tiny right-facing dihedral and black streak. Crank pockets and pinches up the dihedral and arete of the dihedral through the steep crux. Pop out out of the dihedral, find the hidden pockets and dive up to the anchor.

Location

Just a few paces right of Blackballed

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor with lowering biners.

Photos

Rika J.
Albuquerque, NM
5.9
Rika J.   Albuquerque, NM
5.9
This is kind of a hard onsight, because finding the good holds is tricky unless you know where they are. However, I didn't feel like there were any moves harder than 5.9 on the route. Jul 16, 2017
This is a great 5.9 lead. Pumpy, but well protected - With generally clean falls, this would be a perfect starting point for someone looking to push into the 9s. Jun 12, 2017
Swithich
  5.9+
Swithich  
  5.9+
The route is sustained 5.9 the whole way. Do not expect a rest in the upper section. Probably goes as a whole as a 5.9+. May 30, 2016
Finn Foster  
 
On the Gnar Wall, this route has the most flow and is great for new leaders trying to push themselves a little. I recommend this route for sure. My favorite route on the Gnar Wall for sure. Oct 12, 2015
aha
  5.10-
aha  
  5.10-
Felt like a 10. Sweet climb, but unless you work out those hidden holds (which I never found) route is pumpy and worth a 10 grade Sep 30, 2015