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Routes in Gnar Wall

Balls to the Wall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crest Chewel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helical Tusk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Ma No Cavities S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tooth Fairy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 1,804 total · 13/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Cruise the lower part of the climb on jugs. I'm not sure if it's better to go left or right at the crux at the last bolt.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine. Jun 26, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one. Jul 1, 2007
ScottCThompson
  5.10b
ScottCThompson  
  5.10b
Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained. May 12, 2009
manuel rangel
Arizona
5.10b
manuel rangel   Arizona
5.10b
Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun. Nov 11, 2009
Finn Foster
  5.10a/b
Finn Foster  
  5.10a/b
Pretty fun route, but not a 10c. I thought it was easier than Balls to the Wall. The crux move is a little tougher, but overall it is an easier route. The fourth bolt definitely has a tough crux right before the bolt. Oct 12, 2015

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