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Routes in Gnar Wall

Balls to the Wall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crest Chewel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helical Tusk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Ma No Cavities S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tooth Fairy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 195 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

One of the better 5.9s at El Rito, however, it may be just a little scary for the 5.9 leader down low due to moderately long spacing between bolts. There are, however, bolts where you need them. Has a nice little overhung section, which is unusual at the 5.9 grade. Start on the arete on the right side of the wall (right next to the corridor), and move to the right through the overhang. Shares anchors with Tooth Fairy.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors

Photos

Andrew B. Ellis
  5.9+
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.9+
Great climb, but heady for the grade. Expect excellent movement, but keep your cool through the first 3 bolts. Jun 12, 2017
Finn Foster  
 
I wouldn't call it run-out, but the bolts are a little more spread out than other routes on the Ganr Wall. The third bolt is in the wall solidly, but the hanger moves freely 1" in between the bolt head and the cobblestone wall. It doesn't feel comfy, but it is sturdy and my partner and I both climbed it. Pretty cool movement though. Oct 12, 2015
JoshuaJones Jones
Albuquerque
 
JoshuaJones Jones   Albuquerque
 
Fun sport climb with an interesting crux move over a small overhanging section. I would not want to take a lead fall after the second bolt as you may hit the ledge. The bolt there is hanging out of the rock about a 1/4" Excellent climb. Sep 25, 2012
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Someone fixed the bolt last mentioned cause I didn't see that. I thought the start was the crux and quite runout for a nine leader. Maybe I just didn't find the right holds, as usual. After that, nothing but big holds, just hard to see at first cause of the shade. Nov 11, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Very fun route. Can't in good conscience give it 3 stars due to the crappy third bolt. It's in solid and doesn't wobble (it's a Rawl), but it protrudes from the rock face by 3/4 of an inch. Whoever bolted it didn't take the time to make sure the hole was drilled deep enough. Nov 21, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Maybe the newest route at El Rito. Easy start like 6-7. Fun route for newer leaders. Crux is 9+ but short. Oct 8, 2006