Geronimo
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
| Type: | Trad, Alpine |
| GPS: | 40.2494, -105.641 |
| FA: | Maximilian Barlerin, Quinn Brett |
| Page Views: | 1,921 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Maxito on Aug 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Geronimo
The route begins with some scrambling up towards the base of many dihedrals on the left side of the wall. Look for a good ledge just left of a prominent, hanging arete.
P1. Climb up a right-facing corner with a killer undercling, tiny locks, and long reach to an obvious, blocky band (some rotten). Mantel the band, and face climb into a large dihedral (5.12- R or 5.10 C2). Continue up the corner with great fingers, a hand crack on the left can be used at times. Belay at a good stance above the dihedral (5.11-). -ROUTE UPDATE (8/2016): I fixed a wire in the crux corner, the crux is now safe, although one still has to do a 5.9+ R move to gain the stance below the 5.11- dihedral.
The short corner/seam guarding this pitch was freed on-sight by the first ascent party, but due to the nature of the rest of the climb, we thought that a clean aid rating would not deter the 5.10 climber.
P2. Continue up a fading, thin hand crack, pull a couple face moves, and re-engage a sweet splitter over a small roof onto easier terrain. Stretch the rope generally up and left. This is good, clean climbing (5.10).
P3ish. Simul climb up then right around 200 feet of lower angle terrain. A wider dihedral above looked great, but we meandered further right to belay on a large, sloping ramp at another steep dihedral. This open book is obvious from the ground.
P4. Climb fingers in the corner. It is easier than it looks. Belay at the top (5.9+).
P5-7. Simul to the top (5.7).



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