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Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"

Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Harem Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Have a Line S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sweeney's Edge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 190 ft
FA: Kale
Page Views: 223 total, 8/month
Shared By: Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

The eye-catching overhanging overlap "arch" lowest on the dome. Start up a moderate corner that arcs left. There is adequate gear, but it is often small and tricky to see the placements. The 1st ascent broke it into 2 pitches at the obvious ledge at 130 ft, as to obtain more TCU's!! Save a large finger sized cam to protect the exit over the lip 190 ft from the start.

Location

The lowest "arch" on the dome. A single 60m rope in two rappels down Dreams of Wild Corgis will get you down.

Protection

As many #1 blue TCU's as you can obtain!....half a dozen to a dozen should be enough! Small nuts/rps. Nuts and cams to 2.5 inches. Save a .5-.75 inch cam for the end. Bolt/chain anchor on the ledge over the roof lip. Rappel Dreams of Wild Corgis.

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