In Over My Head
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
|Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Harem Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Have a Line S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Sweeney's Edge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tucker, Kale: FFA Fremont|
|Page Views:||293 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015|
|Admins:||WAGbag, Mike Engle|
DescriptionThe beautiful looking inside corner with a roof jog left 150 from the slab start. Pitch 1. Clip bolts up the 5.10 slab and grin at the perfect hand/fist crack dihedral. The left jogging roof throws an awkward 5.10 move in before continuing up to a bolt/chain anchor ledge. Often climbers feel like their heads are trapped under the roof!
Pitch 2. The second 180 foot pitch is mostly bolted (13 draws). This pitch has some hollow and potentially loose ledges/flakes. There is a few optional gear placements to supplement the initial moderate climbing, but as the pitch gets harder (5.10 slab) the bolts get closer! The final exit moves over the overlap are more awkward and balancy than hard and strenuous. This pitch traverses significantly right, making it challenging to toprope. It is best to rappel after this pitch straight down 180 feet to the Arch Enemy anchor.