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Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"

Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Arcing Arrow, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Harem Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Have a Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sweeney's Edge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 185 ft
FA: Fremont
Page Views: 130 total · 11/month
Shared By: Boundary County Climbers on Sep 1, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

Climb up face/slab features past a bolt 20 feet up (as of 2017 a potentially dangerous block/flake is immediately right of this bolt) into a left arching corner for 180 feet. It eases you in with lots of good no-hands rests. The last 40 feet is sustained but there is always good gear. This was initially led onsight with no prior cleaning! The white rock that the route finishes on is from a massive shrub being torn out in the winter freeze/thaws!

Location

The next "arch" to the right of the standard route and sweeney's edge. Preferable to use two ropes to rappel.

Protection

There is a bolt in the initial slab....otherwise this is a gear eating crack! It is nice to have doubles of cams from fingers to big hands (up to 3"); nuts go in reasonably. Bring plenty of long slings to reduce rope drag from the beginning "ins and outs" of the corner. There is a good foot ledge at the chain anchor 180 feet up. It is possible to rappel with a single 60meter rope to the first (mid-way) anchor on Sweeneys Edge and a second shorter rappel to the ground, but use caution as it is truly 100ft!

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