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Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"

Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Harem Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Have a Line S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sweeney's Edge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Sunshine, Lisa, Kale
Page Views: 331 total, 12/month
Shared By: Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

A Fred Beckey inspired climb! (He was asking Kale to go climb in the rockies with him. Instead Kale chose to go climbing at the arches with a couple of lovely ladies. Fred phrased this action as Kale going climbing with his "harem"!!) Pitch 1 5.8+ 60m. Climb the right-most dihedral past an easier than it looks bulge. The slab in the upper region of the corner is mildly runout. Climb across left and down to access a short steep dihedral. A bolt protects the easy face/flake climbing to the chain anchor on a small ledge. Pitch 2 5.8- 60m. Climb left or straight up on your choice of finger to hand/fist cracks for 30 ft. Trending left up grassy ramps and flakes lead into the 2 bolt face climbing of the "standard route's" 3rd pitch. Pitch 3 5.8 30m. Climb up past 3 bolts and sparse gear on blocky dirty terrain to top chains below the clump of trees....or traverse right 180ft, climb short easy fist crack corner, and follow ramps/ledges 180ft back to top clump of trees.

Location

Right-most dihedral. A large triangular overhang is 30 ft above the 1st pitch anchor.

Protection

double set of cams to 2.5inches, set of nuts.
bolt/chain anchors, double 60m ropes to rappel.

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