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Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"

Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Harem Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Have a Line S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sweeney's Edge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Fulton, Steve Jeffries, Joe Lind
Page Views: 272 total · 9/month
Shared By: Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is the route that inspired dozens of trips to the "arches" over the years! Multiple start options exist for the 1st 50m pitch. The left ramp is the easiest, yet still contains a runout slab traverse on small gear. The first ascentionists describe a fairly bold line directly up a seam/crack (R rated 5.9+) on small gear that leads to face climbing past 2 bolts (5.10-). The right start option climbs blocks and flakes, then "bear-hug" traverses left across and up a large hollow flake (don't place gear behind!!!) reaching the ledge below the 2 face bolts. All 3 options involve a great inside corner hand/finger crack before moving right onto the belay ledge 150ft up. Pitch 2 50m 5.9. Climb the stellar thought provoking inside corner to a bolt/chain anchor on the slab. Pitch 3 40m 5.9. An awkward mantel move over the belay leads up 8ft-right-down 10ft-and back up on fun moderate flakes. These flakes lead to easy face climbing past 2 bolts up to a comfortable bolt/chain belay ledge. Pitch 4 30m 5.8. A bolt protects the face climbing off the belay. Mildly dirty runout blocky terrain leads past 2 more bolts before the top bolt/chain anchor ledge, just below the clump of trees. Walk/scramble off left (southwest), or rappel the route with 2 ropes....or rappel with a single 60m rope down Sweeney's Edge.

Location

The main two features are the clump of three trees directly above the route on top of the dome, and the dihedral second pitch.

Protection

Double set of cams (0TCU-#3camalot), and set of nuts. Plenty of slings to keep rope drag down. bolt/chain anchors, 2 ropes to rappel the route.

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