Two for One
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft|
|Page Views:||149 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||nbrown on Jul 8, 2015|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionThis is a wild new line that requires skill at two polar opposites in climbing -- thin slab and steep roofs. It combines parts of an older abandoned slab route (of mine), with a new more direct middle section and finally finishes on an old unknown roof crack (The roof crack was apparently done by Whitney H. & Max B. who came in from the right-hand corner and may or may not have aided the roof).
Start by manteling onto a crescent shaped feature and get a good hand size cam in the eyebrow. From here, move up and slightly right past the techy eyebrow crux (5.11 underclings) protected by a #1 and #0 tcu (in that order). From the ledge above, wander up the easier face past gear and 1 bolt. Note: If climbing with a 60 meter rope, stop and belay at the good horizontal.
The slab climbing gradually increases in difficulty, and is protected by 4 more bolts and one piece of gear. Once at the roof, move left to the obvious roof crack. The slab directly below the roof is often wet and mossy but don't worry -- you'll not be using your feet much from here on... Rail out the incredible roof (past hand size cams) to an anchor just below the hanging rhodo-garden (5.10-).
With a 70 meter rope: Lower in one pitch.
With a 60 meter rope: Break up into 2 pitches then have the leader lower from roof anchor to ground.