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Routes in East Face/Guides Wall (Left side)

Arrow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Collar Holler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Browbeater T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clincher, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonwalk T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moonwalk Right-hand variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nonlinear Equation T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Questionable Hummus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Tricks Of The Trade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two for One T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Wide corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown bolted route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown face right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Charles Ciaffone, Julia Dale Lockamy, Megan de Matteo
Page Views: 544 total · 21/month
Shared By: Charles Ciaffone on Apr 12, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description [Edit]

This is an alternate end to the Unknown 5.9. The crux is the steep slab just below the shallow roof.

Location [Edit]

This route ascends the crack where the trail meets the rock. Follow the crack up. At the top of the crack, continue up on slab and eyebrows to the obvious crack in the shallow roof. Pull up left of the crack and then move right to the belay rings.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack to #1.5 tri-cams. Bolt belay on the ledge below the bulge. Plenty of eyebrows that will take cams, tri-cams, and even some mid-size nuts.

Photos

If it turns out I was not the first, please let me know and I will update. Apr 13, 2016
We finished the first pitch of this route at the belay rings below the bulge. I'm looking to add a second pitch but will try to avoid the 5.10 move on Unknown Face Right. May 31, 2016
Just a heads up, this is a left hand variation finish to "unknown 5.9 PG-13", not "unknown face right". It's confusing, I know. The 5.6 entrance crack pictured was likely one of the first starts for climbers here in the 80's/90's but I think most break right at the top of it to gain the anchors. Jun 7, 2016
Thanks. I would really have been surprised if no one had climbed that crack before, since it is just sitting there waiting to be plugged with gear and feet. Jun 7, 2016
I'm looking forward to your book on the area, with topos and pictures. Jun 9, 2016

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