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Routes in Rubaiyat Spire

Conn Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kamps Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruby Slippers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Shaffer
Page Views: 173 total · 4/month
Shared By: harrison t on Jul 6, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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A great Scary Larry .11 in the spires that's harder than it looks! A short, but hard first pitch to an easier, but spicy second pitch!

1) 5.11+ 2 bolts, 2 pins, gear
Climb up the short crack getting good gear to a long reach clipping the first bolt. Rest up before launching into the strenuous and semi-awkward flakes. Never run-out, but sustained!
Build an anchor when the angle backs off to a ramp.

2) 5.10 PG13 1 bolt, gear (flavorful)
Head up past one low bolt on the wall to the right through the cool looking bulges. The harder climbing is well protected by gear, but expect some route finding and some moderate face climbing up higher above some questionable and spacey gear.


East face
Starts at layback crack to a high bolt to a left to right angling juggy flake.
Rappel from summit anchor


Micro to bd #3. rps
bolts, pins
Natural anchor for p.1
2 bolt/webbing for summit anchor


- No Photos -
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11+ PG13
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11+ PG13
Beware of death flake in the middle of the upper slab on 2nd pitch. Jul 7, 2015

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