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Ruby Slippers
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Rubaiyat Spire
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Conn Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kamps Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ruby Slippers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.84779, -103.53411 |
| FA: | Larry Shaffer and Curt Love |
| Page Views: | 998 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | harrison t on Jul 6, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
A great Scary Larry .11 in the spires that's harder than it looks! A short, but hard first pitch to an easier, but spicy second pitch.
1) 5.11+ 2 bolts, 2 pins, gear
Climb up the short crack getting good gear to a long reach clipping the first bolt. Rest up before launching into the strenuous and semi-awkward flakes. Never run-out, but sustained.
Build an anchor when the angle backs off to a ramp.
2) 5.10 PG13 1 bolt, gear (flavorful)
Head up past one low bolt on the wall to the right through the cool looking bulges. The harder climbing is well protected by gear, but expect some route finding and some moderate face climbing up higher above some questionable and spacey gear.
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