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Routes in Rubaiyat Spire

Conn Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kamps Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruby Slippers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell, August 1966
Page Views: 960 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This is a well protected but still somewhat spicy lead up the north face of the spire. Follow discontinuous cracks up the vertical face until a large ledge when it is possible and logical to traverse left into an rightward arching chimney. Make your way up this chimney and consider belaying your second from the top of the flake to lessen rope drag. The second pitch (if you choose to make it a second pitch) then clips a bolt across the chasm made by the flake, and moves up and right into a flared crack and tops out.


Start on a block (see photos) on the north/uphill face of Rubaiyat spire. Follow cracks as above.


I did not place anything larger than a #4 camalot. Plenty of runners. Large runner or use rope to make an anchor with the flake at the top of the chimney.

2 bolts to rap. One 60m rope would almost certainly NOT make it to the ground.
Kirtis Courkamp
Kirtis Courkamp   Golden
Great Old School 5.7 climbing, so be solid at your grades. Rope drag can be a bitch = Extend your pro, or just don't protect the chimney like I did. Bring webbing for rap anchors on the E side of the spire.

Great Route defiantly worth giving it a go Sep 22, 2014

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