Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell, August 1966|
|Page Views:||1,109 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||chris tregge on May 22, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
This is a well protected but still somewhat spicy lead up the north face of the spire. Follow discontinuous cracks up the vertical face until a large ledge when it is possible and logical to traverse left into an rightward arching chimney. Make your way up this chimney and consider belaying your second from the top of the flake to lessen rope drag. The second pitch (if you choose to make it a second pitch) then clips a bolt across the chasm made by the flake, and moves up and right into a flared crack and tops out.
Start on a block (see photos) on the north/uphill face of Rubaiyat spire. Follow cracks as above.