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Routes in Owls Head Mountain

Breeze Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Central AC T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Owl Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peckers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wind Song T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Justin Serpico and Mike Hazard
Page Views: 277 total · 8/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Jun 2, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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As of June 2017, the trail and parking are closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday. Details

Description

Attempting to keep feet dry, climb the finger crack in the corner and traverse right a step or two under the overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) and climb either or both of the parralel cracks above to the 4th class terrain below the summit. Scramble the remaining 20ft to the top. (first ascent stemmed both cracks due to them being filled with dirt, moss and trees. once clean it may be possible to climb either crack). It is possible to build an anchor directly over climb, but far back from the cliff edge, at the summit with 3 mid size cams.

Location

Start 10ft right of Breeze Crack at a right facing wet corner with a low overhang about 12ft up. Walk off to the climbers left.

Protection

The crux is low but the gear is good above the crux. the cracks above are still being cleaned and may be difficult to protect. Gear: Mostly nuts and finger size cams up to #1 camalot. For the anchor on the summit approximately .75, 1, and 2 camalot sized cams will build a bomber anchor. There are no trees anywhere near the top. Gear only.

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