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Routes in Owls Head Mountain

Breeze Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Central AC T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Owl Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Peckers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wind Song T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Elevation: 2,812 ft
GPS: 44.248, -73.823 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,444 total, 72/month
Shared By: Ben Brotelho on Nov 18, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

A nice little nob that has some great views, relaxed ambiance, and some nice clean (albeit short/easy) crack climbs right at the summit. The vantage point here may be the best part...as one is climbing on the cliff they can expect great views of Pitchoff, Cascade, Hurricane, and Giant mountains. A very popular hiking trail, so expect some curious glances when you top out on the summit.

Rock is clean for the most part, a little lichen here and there to keep things interesting. Top-roping may be done with prodigious use of static line (trees are far back), or by building a gear anchor.

Given the sunny exposure, I can imagine warm rock climbing can take place here well into the early winter and in the spring.
As of June 2017, the trail and parking are closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday. Details

Getting There

NOTE: As of June 2017, the parking on Owls Head Lane and the trail to Owls Head Mountain are closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday.

Otherwise...

Park at Owl's Head Lane, located 3.1 miles from the 73/9 intersection (driving from Keene to Lake Placid), on the left. Park at a side road a short distance up the road, next to the trail sign. A quick mile to the summit, and a gully on the right becomes prominent just before the actual summit. The cliff base is down this gully.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Owls Head Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooters
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breeze Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peckers
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hooters 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Breeze Crack 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Peckers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Owls Head Mountain »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
A good looking, good sized cliff with excellent rock, in a scenic location but ... surprisingly few possible climbing routes for the size of the cliff, and most routes are short but steep cracks.
The cracks are tough on the hands (tape well), have a flared "V" profile, and I think are too tough for nearly all beginners .... Even on a sunny day the constant winds can make it cool. A beautiful place but I was disappointed at the climbing. Oct 11, 2017
Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
A helmet is fairly mandatory. There's a fair amount of loose gravely rock and a few big pieces on the summit. A careless hiker could easily kick some off without realizing, or the wind might take some turned up pieces. While my group was hanging out, a baseball sized chuck came rocketing down. I had just been up on the summit a few minutes earlier and no one was even up there!

Though this cliff is quite sunny, it can get very windy. A calm day allows you to climb later in the season, but on a November day when I visited, it was getting blasted. Not very cozy... Apr 24, 2017
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
Great beginner's crag with nice views, clean cracks, and relatively easy top ropes (30' of static line is useful for the climbs on the left side).

This could probably be lumped in with the other High Peaks climbing areas. Oct 21, 2013

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