All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > C: Keene Region

Owls Head Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Owls Head Mountain

L › R R › L A › Z

	Breeze Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Central AC T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fire In The Sky TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hooters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Let It Burn TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Owl Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Peckers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Smoke on the Water TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Wind Song T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	2,812 ft	857 m
GPS:	44.24788, -73.82303 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,696 total · 80/month
Shared By:	Ben Brotelho on Nov 18, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: As of June 2017, the trail and parking are closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday. Details

Due to overcrowding and private land issues, the town of Keene and local landowners have come to a compromise regarding the parking on Owls Head Lane, and use of the trail to Owls Head Mountain, which crosses private land. The parking and trail are hereby closed on weekends, from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday. The trail will be permanently closed at the end of the 2017 hiking season.

Description

A nice little nob that has some great views, relaxed ambiance, and some nice clean (albeit short/easy) crack climbs right at the summit. The vantage point here may be the best part...as one is climbing on the cliff they can expect great views of Pitchoff, Cascade, Hurricane, and Giant mountains. A very popular hiking trail, so expect some curious glances when you top out on the summit.

Rock is clean for the most part, a little lichen here and there to keep things interesting. Top-roping may be done with prodigious use of static line (trees are far back), or by building a gear anchor.

Given the sunny exposure, I can imagine warm rock climbing can take place here well into the early winter and in the spring.

Getting There

NOTE: As of June 2017, the parking on Owls Head Lane and the trail to Owls Head Mountain are closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday.

Otherwise...

Park at Owl's Head Lane, located 3.1 miles from the 73/9 intersection (driving from Keene to Lake Placid), on the left. Park at a side road a short distance up the road, next to the trail sign. A quick mile to the summit, and a gully on the right becomes prominent just before the actual summit. The cliff base is down this gully.