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Routes in Colfax Peak

Cosley-Houston WI4 Steep Snow
Ford's Theatre WI4+ Steep Snow
Polish Route WI6 Steep Snow
Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rogoz-partner, 2000
Page Views: 751 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on May 6, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Cross the bergschrund, which can be tenuous and involving a mixed traverse in from the right, to access the first pitch of ice.

Climb a long pitch of WI4+ to a snow slope and up to the crux pitch. The crux has steep ice for 30 feet or so, eases off, and then gets beneath a free-hanging dagger at WI6. Find a way onto the dagger and ascend to the top of the flow, easing to slightly off-vertical.

Climb a couple more steep ice steps and gain the upper snowfield, cutting between rock buttresses and then heading up and right to the summit.

Location

In the middle of the North Face of Colfax Peak is an unmistakeable ice line, cutting straight through. Approach via the Coleman-Deming route and Heliotrope Ridge.

Protection

Ice screws and pickets. Pins can be helpful for the initial traverse.

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