Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, April 1982
Page Views: 2,883 total · 61/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Mar 2, 2015 with updates from Kyle Tarry
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts just above the bergschrund with a low-angle ice ramp up to the base of the crux pillar. The pillar is short and steep, with about 30 feet of ice before hitting a steep snow gully trending up and right. The ramp heads directly to another pitch of ice, this one shorter at about 20 feet and more of a curtain. It's possible to climb this in many different ways. Above the curtain, follow the gully system up and right to a tighter exit gully which brings you to the top.

Descend toward the second peak of Colfax toward Mount Baker. Skirt this on the South side, just below the summit, then weave your way down to the Baker-Colfax saddle.

Location

On the northwest face of Colfax, head up and right of the Polish Route, across the bergschund, and begin the route below the obvious crux pillar.

Protection

Screws, pins, and pickets. A light rock rack has been recommended, but the rock is kitty litter.

Photos

Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
 
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
 
We found a light rock rack (a couple pins, a half set of nuts, and a few cams) to be useful. There is not a ton of rock gear on the route but it was nice to have for the few times it did get used. Nov 19, 2018
Flava Flav
Kirkland, Washington
 
Flava Flav   Kirkland, Washington
 
Climbed the route yesterday in cold clear weather. The route looks a little more icy in the pictures than when we found it, only the 30 ft curtain was ice, the rest of the route was a form of AI, snow, or lots and lots of rime. Pickets were necessary for the anchor above the curtain. Would bring pickets instead of rock gear if you were expecting snowy conditions... 4 days ago