Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, April 1982
Page Views: 5,034 total · 67/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Mar 2, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

The route starts just above the bergschrund with a low-angle ice ramp up to the base of the crux pillar. The pillar is short and steep, with about 30 feet of ice before hitting a steep snow gully trending up and right. The ramp heads directly to another pitch of ice, this one shorter at about 20 feet and more of a curtain. It's possible to climb this in many different ways. Above the curtain, follow the gully system up and right to a tighter exit gully which brings you to the top.

Descend toward the second peak of Colfax toward Mount Baker. Skirt this on the South side, just below the summit, then weave your way down to the Baker-Colfax saddle.

Location

On the northwest face of Colfax, head up and right of the Polish Route, across the bergschund, and begin the route below the obvious crux pillar.

Protection

Screws, pins, and pickets. A light rock rack has been recommended, but the rock is kitty litter.

Photos