All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Freeway Crags > Bat Walls
The Right Stuff
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Garry Allan, Victor Marcus, John Hoffman 1979|
|Page Views:||307 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Mulligan on May 3, 2015|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
DescriptionThis route is badass. Even more badass is that Gary Allan climbed and bolted it onsight, ground up.
Pitch one of the route starts about 30' from the left side of the wall and directly below the end of the arching crack that makes up the middle 1/3 of the route. There is about a 20' runout up 5.9+/5.10- slab to the first bolt (a nice new 1/2" ASCA 5-piece). There is then another 20' of runout up the slab into the bottom of the arching crack. Follow the arching crack through a couple of cruxy sections with very thin feet to a belay on a small ledge (tall reach to the new belay bolts (one ASCA 5 piece and one 3/8" bolt).
Now make difficult and balancey moves clipping the 1st bolt on the second pitch and then follow the hand crack up through a couple of bulges to the replaced anchor.