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Routes in Upper West Side

12th Man, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby Anarchist T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beast Mode T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enemy of the State S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
First Light S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fixin' To Die T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Honeycomb Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honeycomb Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Indian Paintbrush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Live Free or Die T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lost Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MVP S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mariposa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Metamorphosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neverland S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Rose, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Sage, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Skin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wings Of Desire S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 180 ft
FA: 5/1/15
Page Views: 62 total, 2/month
Shared By: applewood on Apr 27, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

NEVERLAND 5.9 ** 95-180'’ F (9-17b)
Climb the face left of the large crack/chimney to the mid point anchors on the big ledge or all the way to the top - be careful of rope drag on the upper section. Also be carful, apparently there is a snake den right at the base, as well as a bunch of poison ivy. Can also be done as 2 pitches;
P1 - 5.8+ ** 95’' F (9b) - Begin at the edge of the chimney and traverse left over broken rock, then climb directly up to the large ledge with the 2 chain anchors.
P2 - 5.9 ** 85'’ F (7b) - Continue up the face above to the high crux and 2 bolt anchors on top. Best to rappel and not lower from top chain anchors.

Location

Begin just left of the large chimney.

Protection

fixed - 17 bolts, a couple of medium cam placements are possible but not essential between bolts. Rap anchors at the top and mid-level

Photos

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