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Routes in Upper West Side

12th Man, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby Anarchist T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beast Mode T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enemy of the State S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
First Light S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fixin' To Die T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Honeycomb Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honeycomb Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Indian Paintbrush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Live Free or Die T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lost Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MVP S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mariposa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Metamorphosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neverland S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Rose, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Sage, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Skin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wings Of Desire S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 4/14
Page Views: 112 total, 2/month
Shared By: applewood on Jan 28, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Honeycomb Arete 5.7+ *** 85-165' M (3-8b)
Climbs the arete and shallow corners at the left edge of the rusty tan lower face to the mid point rap anchors, or set of chains at the top. Can be done as one long pitch or just the excellent bottom half. This is also the descent route for the face.

P1 - 5.7+ *** 85' M (3b) - This is a fantastic mostly trad pitch on great rock, with a high bolt protected crux. Begin at the lowest point of the arete on the left edge of the rusty tan face. A wide range of cams and nuts are needed. 2 chain anchors are the mid-level belay station (with an extra belay anchor beside them).

P2 - 5.3 * 85' M (5b) From the large ledge with the rap anchors continue to the top up the upper slab which is easy but worth doing for the classic mantle move, and as an easy way to the top of the face in one pitch. 2 chain anchors and an extra bolt are at the top lip.

Location

Begin at the left end of the lower rusty tan face and climb directly up, angling left a bit to the slabby upper face.

Protection

Mixed, a wide range of cams (.2 to #3) and nuts are needed throughout.

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