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Routes in Upper West Side

12th Man, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby Anarchist T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beast Mode T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enemy of the State S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
First Light S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fixin' To Die T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Honeycomb Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honeycomb Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Indian Paintbrush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Live Free or Die T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lost Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MVP S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mariposa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Metamorphosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neverland S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Rose, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Sage, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Skin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wings Of Desire S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 45 total, 1/month
Shared By: applewood on Mar 7, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

BEAST MODE - 5.10d ** 100' M(5b)
Begin about 10' right of the middle section of the lower face, and climb the gear protected lower face just left of the short diagonal crack (5.6). At the big ledge continue directly up and veer left onto the upper crux face. Two chain anchors with extra bolt at 100' (shared with "Indian Paintbrush"). A good route, but not as consistent as it's neighbor - easier at the start and harder at the end.

Variation link-up - THE 12th BEAST 5.10d ** 105' F(9b) - Climb The 12th Man and after the 5th bolt traverse up and left to join "Beast Mode" after its first bolt. Lower with care due to longer length.

Location

The last route on the right side of the main face (before it turns in to a shorter cliff).

Protection

Mixed, 5 bolts and a wide variety of cams

Photos

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