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Texas Tea
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in South Dakota Dome
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Black Hills Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gold Digger TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Not Worth Your While T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Texas Tea S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01886, -116.14812 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, March 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,098 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Mar 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This testpiece climbs the improbable face to the right of Black Hills Gold, sharing the same lower-off anchor.
The rock is grainy, but the sequences are quintessential Josh: perplexing and tricky, with funky combinations- like a series of boulder problems.
It's easy to toprope the climb off the Black Hills Gold anchor by swinging over to the right and clipping the top 3 bolts while lowering down after leading Black Hills Gold.
No move harder than around 11b, but a very tough onsite due to the ultra tricky sequences.
To set up a TR, scramble around to the left, it’s a pretty straight forward solo to get up there (easy 5th class). Bring a #2 Camalot and a tether (I used a 48-inch nylon sling). You can clip in to the cam while you maneuver down to reach the anchor, otherwise it’s a little dicey to reach it.
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