Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain, May 1990 (Toprope) First Lead: Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, February 2015
Page Views: 879 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Feb 4, 2015
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This route follows an overhanging intrusion of featured, black-varnished rock. The moves are unusual with a tricky crux, but very well-protected, and high on the fun factor.

This route was discovered by prolific route prospector Todd Swain, who toproped the line in 1990, but somehow it flew under the radar for all these years; it's a real gem.

I'd give it 2 or 3 out of 5 stars. As a bonus, when you're getting lowered down, clip the top 3 bolts of Texas Tea and give it a go on TR!

Location

On the steep northeast face of South Dakota Dome.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt lower-off anchor.

Clipping the 4th bolt requires a bit of manuevering, but once you find the stance it's not too bad.

Photos

Rolf Rybak
BC
  5.10+
Rolf Rybak   BC
  5.10+
A great climb, much steeper than it first appears. Strenuous, 10+ would be a more appropriate grade, Feb 7, 2015
Murf
  5.10c
Murf  
  5.10c
I might have been having an off attitude day, but I'd say 1 or 2 stars at best. Feb 9, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Pretty good, easily two stars. Fun movement, neat line and just enough awkward to make it interesting but not desperate. TR hero on my visit.... may adjust rating after lead. Whatever the grade, it's worth doing with it's easy approach, bolt protection & convenience anchors. Feb 22, 2016
Matt Hagny
  5.10a
Matt Hagny  
  5.10a
Definitely worth doing. I little tricky, but only 10a by J-tree trad standards. Apr 23, 2018