Herkules
5.13a/b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 49.77807, 11.38772 |
| FA: | P. Scheffler 1988 |
| Page Views: | 976 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
Description
This all-time classic is one of the best of its grade in the Frankenjura, and surely among the best 5.13 sport climbs in the world. The rock is ideal, climbing a cresting wave of steep limestone littered in fist-deep, incut pockets. The climbing is fully modern, continuously challenging, and terribly satisfying.
The route includes several distinct cruxes beginning with an improbable huck move that will leave mortals dangling from the end of the rope. Those who stick the move will face a puzzling sequence of long cross moves up the steepest part of the wall. Repress the building pump to get a marginal shake at the lip. The redpoint crux is a difficult mono-facilitated mantle move to get established on the overhanging headwall.



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