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Routes in Barenschlucht Wände

Herkules S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Roter Baron S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: P. Scheffler 1988
Page Views: 145 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This all-time classic is one of the best of its grade in the Frankenjura, and surely among the best 5.13 sport climbs in the world. The rock is ideal, climbing a cresting wave of steep limestone littered in fist-deep, incut pockets. The climbing is fully modern, continuously challenging, and terribly satisfying.

The route includes several distinct cruxes beginning with an improbable huck move that will leave mortals dangling from the end of the rope. Those who stick the move will face a puzzling sequence of long cross moves up the steepest part of the wall. Repress the building pump to get a marginal shake at the lip. The redpoint crux is a difficult mono-facilitated mantle move to get established on the overhanging headwall.

Location

The first bolted line right of the obvious wide crack, climbing the left margin of the left-most huge roof.

Protection

About 7 bolts, almost always sporting fixed draws, to an anchor.

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