Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft
FA: Richard Barrett, Solo
Page Views: 287 total · 6/month
Shared By: Light .50 on Feb 15, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fine line on solid sandstone. The first half of the route is trad. The route starts on a low angle slab transitioning into vertical terrain relatively quickly. The crack is straight forward, not to difficult and takes gear well. The route transitions into a groove after about 50’ of climbing that does not yield pro so, it’s protected by bolts. At this point the route is significantly steeper. This is probably the crux of the route. Small shallow pockets in the groove, solid edges and some delicate foot work will lead to a two bolt anchor exactly 100’ of the deck.

Location

The route is located just 5 - 10 minutes from the Cottonwood Wash pull out on the south side of the canyon; Left side of the river bed if you’re facing up canyon. It is fairly easy to recognize. UTM Grid location (12 S 0548341 4325581)

Protection

Tricams 1.5 - 2.5 are useful for the start. I would recommend small to medium nuts, TCU’s or Master Cams #0 -#4, and Camalots .4 - #3. A #4 Camalot (Optional) might be useful to protect the transition from the crack to the groove depending on how willing the leader is to run it out before reaching the first bolt. The groove is protected by 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor at the top. 1 60M cord will do.

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