The Outer Edge
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.43421, -105.38849 |
| FA: | Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,028 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Jan 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Climbs nice dihedrals with an exciting and airy finish on the arete above Not on a Weak Day.
P1. 5.10d/11a. Boulder up and left from the base of the Not on a Weak Day offwidth past a bolt. Tenuously lieback past two more bolts then up a dihedral. Ascend another dihedral to a stance below the upper overhangs. Clip a bolt, step up on to the face, then move right to the arete. With hands on the arete and feet on the overhanging right face, climb the spectacular arete past two more bolts to bolted anchors (left of the Not on a Weak Day anchors).
Location
Climb the arete on the left side of the gash above Totem Tower just left of Not on a Weak Day. See the photo.
Approaches include:
1) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
2) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the cliff then angle up and right following cairns in a trough. Scramble up behind Totem Tower and up to the base of the route.



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