Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dane Bass and Kevin Underhill, 2001
Page Views: 2,365 total · 25/month
Shared By: Kevin Wagner on Dec 20, 2014
Admins: MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

Walk into the canyon and stare in awe and intimidation at the 5,000 ft Scariest Ride in the Park ridge which summits El Toro. Turn your attention left toward the similar, although less impressive and intimidating knife blade ridge which begins in the super clean Craig Luebben dihedral and climbs several traverses and head walls to a pointy summit adjacent to the summit of Estraillita.

This is a fantastic outing and an excellent first limestone ridge climb in the canyon, although the danger factor for yourself, and more so for the parties below you, should not be under estimated. The ridge is LOOSE, and a large percentage of your day will be spent tip-toeing on the rocks that make the least amount of noise. Luckily, the rock quality improves on the head walls, and protection may be found throughout if you are willing to search. Just be careful, and you'll have a great time! It is recommended to belay short of the base of each headwall in case something does become dislodged, although you may have to fight some drag before you find something you're willing to use as an anchor. Simul-climbing is not necessary or recommended given the relatively short length and loose factor, making a fall on easy terrain much more probable. Pitch it out 6 or 7 times over the double-exposed ridge until you reach the cool summit and belay at the super-comfy anchor on Will the Wolf Survive. From here it is four easy raps to the ground. Finally, be careful not to pass the anchor on the first rappel, which is approximately 30 feet below the summit, beneath the overhang. A 70m will NOT reach the next anchor if you attempt to pass this station.

Location

Climb Pepe Y Lupe (also known as the Craig Luebben Route: 5.7, 5.10b impressive dihedral, 5.9) to the start of the ridge.

Descent: rappel Will the Wolf Survive once the ridge ends at the summit.

Protection

Single rack of cams (to #3 C4) and nuts. C3 size cams are useful. Long slings and cordellette. Doubles of any size would be way overkill.

Photos