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Routes in El Fin de Semana (Weekend Wall)

Boltergeist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Camino del Diablo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cosmic Intelligence S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fin de Semana S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hombre de Rifle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Maldito Lunes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mexican Guarantee S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Never on Friday S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prima Donna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Blade Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Same Same But Different S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scavenger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sheba Shite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sketch Pad S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Zuma Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dane Bass and Kevin Underhill, 2001
Page Views: 981 total · 25/month
Shared By: Kevin Wagner on Dec 20, 2014
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Nate Ball

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Description

Walk into the canyon and stare in awe and intimidation at the 5,000 ft Scariest Ride in the Park ridge which summits El Toro. Turn your attention left toward the similar, although less impressive and intimidating knife blade ridge which begins in the super clean Craig Luebben dihedral and climbs several traverses and head walls to a pointy summit adjacent to the summit of Estraillita.

This is a fantastic outing and an excellent first limestone ridge climb in the canyon, although the danger factor for yourself, and more so for the parties below you, should not be under estimated. The ridge is LOOSE, and a large percentage of your day will be spent tip-toeing on the rocks that make the least amount of noise. Luckily, the rock quality improves on the head walls, and protection may be found throughout if you are willing to search. Just be careful, and you'll have a great time! It is recommended to belay short of the base of each headwall in case something does become dislodged, although you may have to fight some drag before you find something you're willing to use as an anchor. Simul-climbing is not necessary or recommended given the relatively short length and loose factor, making a fall on easy terrain much more probable. Pitch it out 6 or 7 times over the double-exposed ridge until you reach the cool summit and belay at the super-comfy anchor on Will the Wolf Survive. From here it is four easy raps to the ground. Finally, be careful not to pass the anchor on the first rappel, which is approximately 30 feet below the summit, beneath the overhang. A 70m will NOT reach the next anchor if you attempt to pass this station.

Location

Climb Pepe Y Lupe (also known as the Craig Luebben Route: 5.7, 5.10b impressive dihedral, 5.9) to the start of the ridge.

Descent: rappel Will the Wolf Survive once the ridge ends at the summit.

Protection

Single rack of cams (to #3 C4) and nuts. C3 size cams are useful. Long slings and cordellette. Doubles of any size would be way overkill.

Photos

This climb is no joke and is for sure dangerous. If you're going to do it, you must be experienced navigating loose terrain and be ok with large runouts and mostly psych pro. That being said, it's a cool route and you can have a great day on it. This route starts on top of Pepe Y Lupe, and can be done in 5 pitches. Find pro where you can and get at it!

P1 (15m)- Start navigating across the ridge for a short pitch before a bolted belay before a short headwall. This is the 2nd pitch anchor on "The Blacksmith." Belay here.
P2 (40m)- Climb past the first headwall, and continue past the 2nd until hitting a bolted belay station on the face, on the Los Lobos side of the ridge below the first large, obvious headwall.
P3 (40m)- Ascend the narrow headwall with decent protection and continue along the ridge to a bush and flat section before another obvious, long and narrow headwall. There is no bolted belay here so you've gotta make one.
P4 (55m)- This is the crux pitch and gets up the headwall with sparse pro. Keep your head on ya through the runout and chossy rock, then continue past a couple palm trees to clean looking rock below the summit peak. Make a gear anchor to belay.
P5 (40m)- Go up the to the peak and finish traversing the last bit of ridge until it ends. Here lies the bolted belay for "Will The Wolf Survive?".

Descent: Rap down "Will The Wolf Survive?" in 3 raps. Jan 3, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, Arizona
 
Kevin Wagner   Tucson, Arizona
 
This was my favorite climb of the trip (above TWZ, but perhaps to each his own) for the adventure, the exposure, and the experience of climbing such a cool and impressive feature of rock. Be careful. I hope I didn't provide too much beta. We had next to none and couldn't find anybody to talk to who had climbed it before, which made for a fun adventure. Dec 20, 2014

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