Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 70 votes
Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Craig & Silvia Luebben, 1998 |
Page Views: | 3,478 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
This three-pitch route follows the striking dihedral on the edge of "El Fin".
P1 - 5.8 climb up low-angle terrain basically following the profile of the formation to a belay niche at the base of the dihedral. Alternatively, one can also climb Sheba Shite (5.9) or Same Same but Different (10c) to arrive at the same spot. (100 ft)
P2 - 10c follow bolts up the obvious dihedral, smearing and stemming for a sustained 100 ft. Belay at bolts on the right.
P3 - 5.9 follow broken and blocky terrain to the top of the fin. Follow the ridge-line for 15 feet and look for rap rings on the south (climber's right) side. Alternatively you can move slightly left just before reaching the south anchor to locate the anchor for Never Cry Wolf where you can set up a belay and rap back to the ground in one rap on a 70 meter rope with a little bit of 3 rd class downclimbing.
One double-rope rap will put you on the trail 100ft uphill from the start.
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