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Early Access
Routes in Main Crag
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2x4 Jenga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Pint of Stout T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Auspicious Sunrise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Autumn Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Batteries Not Included S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bring Your Brass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cam-ouflage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conundrum (Pending FA Info) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Delicacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dragon Slayer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enigma (pending FA info) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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In Search of My Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jenga T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Knob Jollies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knob Walk S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Levitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mystery (pending FA info) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plates of Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Possibilities T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Quitting Time S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sandcastle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Servile Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shorty's Dilemma S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Simply Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spare Rib S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Springtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squat Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Static Undercling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swingtime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Totem Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trycams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m) |
| GPS: | 40.43411, -105.38742 |
| FA: | Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,172 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Dec 8, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a great long pitch with a little bit of everything. A nice slab followed by a big roof (which has been climbed by a 5'2" zero ape index female), beautiful plates, a crack and thin face.
P1 5.9+/10a) Climb the slab past a bolt to the middle of the large roof above. Turn the roof at a bolt, then angle up and right to the base of a large V flake. Turn the V flake on the right at a bolt, then climb beautiful plates up and left to a left-angling crack. Follow the crack to its end, turn a small overlap, and climb past 2 bolts (on Dragon Slayer) to the anchors atop the second pitch of Dragon Slayer.
After getting on the V flake you can also head straight up on easy rock to the anchors on Possibilities And lower to the ground from there.
Continue up Dragon Slayer or rappel.
Descent: rappel Dragon Slayer, or rappel to the anchors at the top of Possibilities and rap that to the ground. ***A SIXTY METER ROPE IS REQUIRED.***
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