Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), Grade III
GPS: 44.0796, -121.7
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,948 total · 14/month
Shared By: Sam Beeduhl on Nov 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball
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Description Suggest change

The most direct established route to the summit from the Crook Cirque crater. This route climbs steep (40-50 degree) snow for several hundred feet before tackling a some steep rime ice and/or mixed ground to the summit.

This route is south facing in a south facing bowl and as such gets a lot of sun. It is prone to avalanches and may have nasty breakable crust on unconsolidated waist deep powder even once the slope steepens to 50 degrees. Know the conditions, get in position early and climb it fast.

Location Suggest change

Straight up the south face, starting on the steep snow field that splits the face.

Protection Suggest change

pickets and maybe some passive pro, but this rock is not what you would call solid, even by Oregon standards

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Photos

High Noon (red) and the Eleven O'clock Gully (yellow) on the south face of Broken Top
High Noon (red) and the Eleven O'clock Gully (y…
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