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Routes in Broken Top

Eleven O'clock Gully 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Steep Snow
High Noon T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3 Steep Snow
Nine O'clock Gully Steep Snow
Northwest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 700 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 491 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sam Bedell on Nov 26, 2014
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

The most direct established route to the summit from the Crook Cirque crater. This route climbs steep (40-50 degree) snow for several hundred feet before tackling a some steep rime ice and/or mixed ground to the summit.

This route is south facing in a south facing bowl and as such gets a lot of sun. It is prone to avalanches and may have nasty breakable crust on unconsolidated waist deep powder even once the slope steepens to 50 degrees. Know the conditions, get in position early and climb it fast.

Location

Straight up the south face, starting on the steep snow field that splits the face.

Protection

pickets and maybe some passive pro, but this rock is not what you would call solid, even by Oregon standards

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