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Routes in Broken Top

Eleven O'clock Gully 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Steep Snow
High Noon T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3 Steep Snow
Nine O'clock Gully Steep Snow
Northwest Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 50 ft, Grade II
FA: Thomas Eliot, Harley Prouty, Charles Whittlesey, Aug., 15, 1910
Page Views: 1,157 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on Aug 27, 2013 with updates from nomdeploom
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

From the Green Lakes trailhead, hike 4.2 miles to Green Lakes. From the junction, take the trail that passes to the left, north side of the smaller lake. Shortly after passing the lake, look
for a climbers trail on the right, that leads to the saddle. The trail is well worn and easy to find. Hike up the ridge, passing a few gendarmes that provide route-finding alternatives, some exposed on gravel and scree but with little difficulty, until reaching an obvious balcony. Above is a terrace that provides the crux of the route. There are many alternatives: (1) traverse right (onto the west side on a short red ledge, then scramble up a steep bit of rock (slings useful for protection) to a loose slope, to reach another headwall. Work right, following a crude path, then back left to the summit. (2) From the balcony, traverse left on poor rock, following tracks that go to a small saddle. From there the summit is a short exposed scramble to the right (west). OR, (3) From the balcony, go straight up decent rock (class 4 or low 5, protectable with slings) to reach the same slope as in alternative (1). There is a block with fixed slings for an anchor to belay others up (and back down on the descent). Follow the same path as in (1) to the summit. Alternative (3) is probably the safest and least exposed route.

Protection

In early season, bring crampons and ice axe.

Photos

climbed this route on 7.21.17. only some snow patches on the approach. we did the left variation which takes you around the left side of the pinnacle. There is one or two very easy fifth class moves on good rock but with a big drop below if you mess up. We belayed this short section to the summit since we brought a short rope and a bit of gear.

very rewarding summit. Jul 24, 2017

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