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Routes in Broken Top

Eleven O'clock Gully 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
High Noon T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3
Nine O'clock Gully
Northwest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Alpine, 500 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 376 total, 10/month
Shared By: Sam Bedell on Nov 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Facing north from the center of the south facing crater (aka Crook Cirque) this is the gully at 11 o'clock. It should be avoided without full consolidated snow cover. The gully climbs roughly 500 feet to a notch in the crater rim. The last 10-20 feet will probably be the crux as it can approach vertical and be capped with a cornice. Most of the gully is 40-50 degree snow. Once you have topped out you can traverse the west face (second class volcano choss or open snow field) and join the Northwest Ridge to the summit (3rd class).

To descend, down climb the route.

Location

Facing north from the center of the south facing crater (aka Crook Cirque) this is the gully at 11 o'clock.

Protection

possibly pickets, ice screws are probably going to be useless

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