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Routes in Stone Garden

Birds From Hell, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blah, Blah, Blah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bloody Knuckles S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ceremonial Execution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Charm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cries of Impending Doom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dilemma T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.Y.D. S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear of Gear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentleman Who Fell, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grief S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Here Today, Tomorrow & Next Week S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypoxia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I'd Rather Be Bolting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Laborious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Souls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Married to the Obsessed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next Year T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
November Shivers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Obsessions S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Paul Moore Boulder V? ?
Saffron & Sensimilla V0-1 4+
Sessions S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stone Garden Offwidth Boulder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tension and Stress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tortured Screams S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Martin Berzins
Page Views: 2,767 total · 59/month
Shared By: Leify Guy on Nov 14, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This classic route is a route worth obsessing over. It climbs steeper than sessions with longer reaches to even better holds. The route is sustained, so climb fast or else the steepness will catch up to you and you'll find yourself struggling to hold onto jugs.

Edit for those that couldn't understand the winch start:
Either clip the first draw and pull up to start the route, traverse in from the start of sessions, have a buddy get down on his hands and knees to boost you up to start, rebuild the giant rock pile that was once at the base, or do the wicked hard boulder problem that changes the grade.

Location

Starts to the left of sessions, follows it's own bolt line, and ends on the same chains. The start used to have a large rock used to reach the starting holds, the rock is now gone, but occasionally a stack of smaller rocks can be found under the start (another way of starting this route has been described as a winch start using the first draw to pull up), or if you're wicked strong figure out the bouldery start.

Protection

Rope, harness, quickdraws, and belayer needed. Shoes, chalk, and forearm muscles recommended.
For better clipping stances and less rope drag at the top due to the steep nature of the route, double up your draws or use 60cm/ 24in slings.

Photos

carter jensen
Salt Lake City, Utah
carter jensen   Salt Lake City, Utah
Fantastic route! It felt significantly easier than Sessions, perhaps because I"m 6'2". Jun 23, 2016
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.12-
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.12-
The start of the route must have changed since the FA. Currently it involves a couple very hard moves to gain the good flake next to the second bolt. Besides the opening moves, this route is very similar to Sessions. If you skip the opening moves and aid up to the flake I would give this route 5.12a A0. If you pull the opening moves it's probably closer to 12c right now. Jul 5, 2017

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