Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Paul Moore, 1995
Page Views: 4,817 total · 28/month
Shared By: Paul S on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This climb is located on the far left of side of stone garden, it's on a wall that can be reached from a scramble up some loose dirt just left of the main crag. Fear of Gear goes up the obivous crack in the middle of the wall. the route protects well and has some very fun moves and some good jamming

Protection

Mid sized cams, a #4 Camalot can be used.

Photos

Jake Richens
Sl, ut
 
Jake Richens   Sl, ut
 
This was my first all trad route, it was awesome! The beginning is a little bouldery and getting established is the hardest part, but after you get past the first 15 feet it is totally rockin. When I topped out I howled like a banchee and got a response from something...perhaps Paul Moore Jul 22, 2006
tytonic
Salt Lake City, UT
tytonic   Salt Lake City, UT
This is an easy route with big holds the whole way. Like a lot of quartizie routes very little crack climbing technique is required. I didn't jam once. The middle section takes big gear. I placed a #4 C4 camalot, a #9 WC hex, and a #3 C4 camalot. The crux is probably getting off the ground and into the crack. Jul 28, 2008
rking101
Evanston, WY
  5.7+
rking101   Evanston, WY
  5.7+
Just started trad. Not my 1st trad lead but lik my 3rd it was scary fun and a great climb. I used 2 mid sized cams 1 big cam and 2u hexes.

If you are at the wall might as well climb it great view Sep 5, 2012
Great route. As said before, start is the crux. A finger sized piece protects the first moves, then the crack is never smaller than hands. Each person climbs this kinda different. Middle section could use a 2nd #3 or #4, but falling here is unlikely with the abundance of positive edges. If you are here with a rack it's a must do. Oct 19, 2017