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Routes in Stone Garden

Birds From Hell, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blah, Blah, Blah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bloody Knuckles S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ceremonial Execution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Charm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cries of Impending Doom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dilemma T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
F.Y.D. S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear of Gear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentleman Who Fell, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grief S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Here Today, Tomorrow & Next Week S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypoxia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I'd Rather Be Bolting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Laborious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Souls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Married to the Obsessed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next Year T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
November Shivers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Obsessions S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Paul Moore Boulder V? ?
Saffron & Sensimilla V0-1 4+
Sessions S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stone Garden Offwidth Boulder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tension and Stress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tortured Screams S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:


Beautiful setting with beautiful quarzite rock. The routes range from face climbing to long, substained, overhanging climbs. Most of the routes are sport, but there are few trad lines that are worth doing. Stone Garden ranges in difficulty, with a few easier routes around 5.7 to 5.12/5.13
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Getting There

The Stone Garden pull out is around 1.3 miles North from the large pull out for Ruth Lake. Look for a small pull out on the east side of the road. On the west side of the rode, there should be a cairn marking the start of a trail. From here it's a short ~10 minute hike to the climbing.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Be carful not to end up at mosquito wall. The app doesn't have the location of mosquito. We accidentally ended up at mosquito wall today and were pretty confused because Stone Garden seems to be the only area near by. Next time I am in the area I will stop and add the location of Mosquito to the app. Sep 17, 2017
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
Yesterday was my first time in this rad AF area, and this place is my new favorite Uinta spot. Unique, hard climbing, and maximum fun! The views are good too. (: Sep 5, 2017
Jared Downs
Salt Lake City
Jared Downs   Salt Lake City
Found: A piece of climbing gear there on 8/13. If you lost the item and can describe it, please message me so I can get the gear back to you. Aug 14, 2017
Ross Thompson
Ross Thompson   SLC, UT
Looking to head up in a couple of weeks. Anybody have clues on what conditions are like up there around now (Today is june 27th)? I'm hoping it's not too early to climb here. A DM would be much appreciated! Jun 27, 2016
Seems to be confusion about the route left of Dilemma; either Midnight Cowboy or God's Sad Cowboy. Either way, we thought it 11.a and it is not all bolts. There are 7 clips and about 4 gear placements. It's a good route but needs a wire brush put to the lichen. The first two clips are on the left side of a shallow dihedral, then through weirdness to a clip below the roof, on which you should extend your draw. Jun 22, 2015
@Ryan Stott the route to the left of sessions is called obsessions I believe Sep 24, 2014
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Found rock shoes at the bottom of this route last week. If you can identify they are yours. PM me.

Mark Jul 7, 2014
Pull-off is 0.4 miles past mile marker 36 (i.e. 36.4 mi.) For reference, the Mosquito Wall pull-off is 0.1 mile further, at 36.5 mi. Jun 9, 2013
Kevin Neville
Salt Lake City
Kevin Neville   Salt Lake City
And for the person that finds my white Von Zippers with black chums that say "The Energy and Geoscience Institute" that I left at the bottom of Cries of Impending Doom, you can have the sunglasses, I just want the chums. I live in Salt Lake. Thanks! Sep 8, 2012
Kevin Neville
Salt Lake City
Kevin Neville   Salt Lake City
I went for my first time up here to climb and absolutely loved it. The quartzite was super sticky, and the routes are all nicely bolted. I can't seem to find the name of the route on the farthest right side of the cliff, climbing the right side of the big, wide, black water streak.It was a couple routes right of Cries of Impending Doom. I'm sure it's cheating but we started by standing on the big rock a little farther right, clipped the first bolt bolt and came into the route leaning to climbers left. If you went any farther right you would turn the corner and see the route, The Birds From Hell and the other next to it. Loved that route. Any info would be appreciated. Sep 8, 2012
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
What is the line just left of Sessions on the big overhang? It is now marked as 12b in chalk, and it also has a stick figure marked in chalk under the overhang. This is a pretty fun climb, and it doesn't seem to be on any map. Aug 11, 2011
The route left of Dilema is "God's Sad Cowboy" .11b, mostly bolted but when I last did it you would want some gear for the section above the roof. FA Nathan Smith, 2004. Aug 29, 2009
Dan Zobell
Springville UT
Dan Zobell   Springville UT
If it's the crag about three hundred yards north of stone garden.. there are eight climbs ther as of now.. from left to right they go 5.5,, 5.6,, two top rope anchors,, 5.9 with a 10a'ish left variation,, 10a,, Two unknown,, 5.9,, and a 5.8 far right ending on a small pillar,, Jul 28, 2009
Couple years ago it said 11b in chalk at the base of the route next to Dilemma. 4 or 5 bolts, pull the roof, then gear on the face(at least when I did it) and one more bolt right before the chains. 11b seemed bout right. Fun route.

Any more info on the 3 routes north of the Stone garden? Grades approach etc. Jul 26, 2009
While we're at it, does anyone have the info on these routes:

Just left of Here Today, Tomorrow, and Next Week there is a new, short, fun bolted line?

Also, directly left of Dilemma is an older bolted route that climbs through the roof on the far left corner? all bolts.

edit: above is Midnight Cowboy, .11b FA: Nathan Smith.
thanks Jim G. Jul 20, 2009
If it's the crag I'm thinking of...
Baldwin bolted the two sport climbs and I put up a trad one as well. All had anchors. I'll talk to Jeff and find out his names. Jul 8, 2009
Dan Zobell
Springville UT
Dan Zobell   Springville UT
Hello... Just a quick question.. Any body know who has bolted two routes on the smaller cliff just north (about 300 yards) of the Stone garden? Name of the Cliff? name of the Routes? Thank you... Jul 6, 2009
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
The trail is a little hard to find. Park at N40 45.084 W110 52.603 at the trail is strait accross the road to the North. Great rock, great climbing. Jul 30, 2006
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Its in the Uintahs, about 30-40 minutes east of Kamas. Feb 7, 2005
Pardon my ignorance. Where is Ruth Lake? What area of Utah? Feb 6, 2005

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