Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 156 total · 3/month
Shared By: chizang on Nov 9, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Dihedral just to right of 6 Toe Crack. Strenuous lie-backing is the character of the route.

Well protected, but fairly old school 5.9. Lots of moss/lichen at bottom of P1 makes me think it is not climbed very often, but I'm not a local, so who knows.

First 25' of P1 are probably the crux. Top of P1 is build your own anchor at approximately same vertical height as 6 Toe Crack. Then continue upwards...

At top of P2, we stepped left to share the 6 Toe Crack slung belay, then ran up the 3rd pitch of 6 Toe Crack to top out. Maybe better climbers would stay in the dihedral/lieback system...

Rappel down 6 Toe Crack with a single 60m rope for the descent.

Location

Obvious dihedral to right of 6 Toe Crack.

Protection

Standard rack. Mostly thin, but some larger pieces like #3 and #3.5 Camalot are handy

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Extend everything and do it in one pitch, dirty fun. A bit to easy to use the face holds unfortunately.. May 31, 2015