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Routes in Six Toe Rock

Chocksucker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Precedents S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Easy Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy on T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fresh Fruit For Rotten Vegetables S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Mercy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Over easy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Picture Perfect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Toe Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stellar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 127 total · 3/month
Shared By: chizang on Nov 9, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Dihedral just to right of 6 Toe Crack. Strenuous lie-backing is the character of the route.

Well protected, but fairly old school 5.9. Lots of moss/lichen at bottom of P1 makes me think it is not climbed very often, but I'm not a local, so who knows.

First 25' of P1 are probably the crux. Top of P1 is build your own anchor at approximately same vertical height as 6 Toe Crack. Then continue upwards...

At top of P2, we stepped left to share the 6 Toe Crack slung belay, then ran up the 3rd pitch of 6 Toe Crack to top out. Maybe better climbers would stay in the dihedral/lieback system...

Rappel down 6 Toe Crack with a single 60m rope for the descent.

Location [Suggest Change]

Obvious dihedral to right of 6 Toe Crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack. Mostly thin, but some larger pieces like #3 and #3.5 Camalot are handy

Photos

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Extend everything and do it in one pitch, dirty fun. A bit to easy to use the face holds unfortunately.. May 31, 2015

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