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Early Access
Routes in Main Crag
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2x4 Jenga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Pint of Stout T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Auspicious Sunrise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Autumn Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Batteries Not Included S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bring Your Brass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cam-ouflage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conundrum (Pending FA Info) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Delicacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dragon Slayer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enigma (pending FA info) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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In Search of My Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jenga T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Knob Jollies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knob Walk S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Levitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mystery (pending FA info) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plates of Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Possibilities T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Quitting Time S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sandcastle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Servile Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shorty's Dilemma S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Simply Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spare Rib S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Springtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squat Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Static Undercling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swingtime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Totem Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trycams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 40.43411, -105.38742 |
| FA: | K. Duncan, D. Humphrey, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 951 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Oct 26, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
The first couple moves are on dubious rock, then it is fun and sustained climbing on great rock to an incredible summit.
P1) 5.11a. Move right around the corner at the first bolt, continue up the SW corner of the formation swinging right through the crux at the 6th bolt, then follow the crack to the anchors.
To descend, rappel the route then scramble down to the Levitation anchors (behind and climber's right of a big rock that is down and climbers right from the base of Swingtime). Rappel 60 meters to the ground (see the photos).
Location
See the photos.
Approaches:
1) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
2) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the wall then angle up and right, following cairns, in a trough. Scramble up behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
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